Hair Color 101!
Introduction to Hair - Color
It is important to understand the different types of haircolor to know what is right for you!
Permanent: Oxidation dyes penetrate into the hair cortex and require a catalyst to activate the pigment formation. Permanent color lightens the natural color and deposits new color at the same time. These formulas provide long-lasting results and offer the best coverage of gray hair.
Demi-Permanent: Oxidation dyes penetrate into the cortex and require a catalyst to activate the pigment formation. They deposit color but do not lighten. Demi-permanents provide long-lasting results and offer excellent gray blending capabilities.
Semi-Permanent: These direct dyes penetrate the outer cortex layer slightly. They last up to six or eight shampoos.
Lighteners/bleach: Used to lift pigment from the hair, these formulas can be on-the-scalp or off-the-scalp. On-scalp lighteners usually have a gel or crème consistency, are softened with an oil base and are used with 10 or 20 volume developers. Off-scalp lighteners are generally in powder form and can be used with up to 40 volume developer.
Temporary Haircolor: These direct dyes are deposited onto the surface of the hair shaft and wash out with shampoo unless the hair is extremely porous.
Four Basic Rules for Formulating Permanent Hair color:
To create beautiful, professional color results, begin by assessing the color and condition of your hair.
Determine the natural level plus the percentage of grey
A “level” is the degree of lightness or darkness in the hair. Typically, level systems range by brand.
STEP 2: Determine the DESIRED level
Consult and determine if the color will be lighter, darker, the same level or just a change in tone.
STEP 3: Determine the tone desired
The tone of the color is its dominant hue. All tones can be described as cool or warm.
STEP 4: Determine the volume of developer needed
Developers are formulated to give up to 1 level of lift for every 3% of developer used, usually, again every brand varies.
Formulating for Demi-permanent Color:
Step 1: Determine the natural level of the hair plus the percentage of grey.Use the swatches provided by the brand you are using to determine the natural level. To compare, fan the swatch
and lift the hair at the new growth area.
Step 2: Determine the level desired (either the same level or darker) plus the desired tone
Step 3: Hair analysis
Step 4: Choose the appropriate formula, then mix, apply and process